We’ll be demonstrating the PBUS method of belaying. We use this technique at our indoor climbing wall and at our challenge course.
Before you tie in or set up your belay device, look up and confirm that you’re on the right side of the rope. The climber should be on the rope closest to the wall.
At the climbing wall we use a figure-8 follow through knot, with a direct tie in through the climber’s harness. There should be about 6 inches of tail in the working end of the rope when you’re done.
At the challenge course we tie a super- 8 knot and attach a carabiner so that we efficiently clip people onto the rope. This big knot is relatively easy to untie, even after being used repeatedly by different climbers. At the challenge course there are situations where we use two carabiners for a front clip. We always use two carabiners when we do a back clip.
So let’s set up the belay device. Take a bight of rope, push it into the rope slots of the belay device. Attach a screw gate carabiner through the cable and the rope and onto the belay loop on your harness. Screw and lock the gate and squeeze check to confirm that it is secure.
Notice there are two rope slots on this ATC. The rope should be in the same slot as your dominant hand. The brake strand of the rope should be down, away from your body and in your dominant hand.
Now let’s dissect the PBUS belay method. This is Pull, Brake, Under, Slide.
Pull slack out of the rope with your non-dominant hand.
Move the slack through the rope and shift your dominant hand into the brake position, keeping the rope taught and under the belay device.
Place your non-dominant hand under your brake hand.
Slide your brake hand up towards the belay device.
Always keep one hand on the brake strand and your eyes on the climber.
At the climbing wall, some people choose to belay with a gri-gri which is a belay device with cam assisted blocking. The PBUS method is the same.
When you climber is ready to come down, you’ll put both hands on the brake strand and feed the rope back int the belay device. Do this slowly so that the climber has a smooth, controlled descent.
When you’re learning to belay, you’ll want a back up belayer to hold the brake strand, leaving just a few feet of slack between the two of you.
When your climber gets down to the ground, give them some extra slack so that they can stand comfortably.
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