The Matterhorn - located in the Swiss Alps, is a majestic mountain that straddles the border between Italy and Switzerland and looms over the Swiss mountain town of Zermatt. In the 1860’s, it was the focus of British and Italian rivalry to be the first to reach its summit.

The first ascent of the Matterhorn marked the end of the golden age of alpinism. It started with the ascent of Wetterhorn in 1854 by a team led by Alfred Wills and ended with the first ascent of the Matterhorn in July 1865 by a team led by Edward Whymper.

Whymper was climbing during that era where mountaineers - mostly British - raced to be the first to reach the peaks of mountains in the Alps and elsewhere. Surprisingly few of them died in the process of seeking to reach the top for glory, England and scientific advancement.

In 1865, Edward Whymper, weary of the failed attempts on the south-west ridge, tried a new way. The stratification of the rocks on the east face seemed to him favourable, and the slope not excessive. However, when this route was attempted, the mountain discharged an avalanche of stone upon the climbers, and the ascent failed.

Carrel, an Italian guide with Whymper, withdrew at the last moment to lead an Italian team up the Italian side of the mountain. He had been recruited by Felice Giordano of the Italian Alpine Club, and the defection marked the end of the partnership between Whymper and Carrel.

After Carrel defected to Giordano, Giordano snatched up the best guides in Zermatt and left the town to plan his expedition. Whymper rolled up his tent, packed his luggage and hastened to Zermatt to reach the summit from that side, but he could find no porters and guides in the town.

He networked around the town and put together a patchwork team of climbers which included Lord Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder and his sons, Peter and Joseph, Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, and Douglas Hadow. They stayed for the night at Monte Rosa Hotel at Zermatt, and on the following day, began their climb of the Matterhorn.

This is their story of triumph and tragedy.

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