In this episode, I’m going to share how I read the surf forecast with a breakdown for Rockaway Beach New York and how I plan my week to pick the right conditions.

Rockaway is a beach break that receives mostly wind swells and occasionally long period ground swells during Hurricane Season that runs from June till November.

It works best in offshore winds from NW, N, NNW, NNE combined with clean wind swells from 8 to 10 sec period and the ideal swell angles from SE or SSE.

The beach break favors left handers with occasional rights and it’s best around a rising mid tide. It gets really crowded when the surf is up but you can always find the dreamers out there.

Since I plan my life around the surf, basically being able to predict what the waves will be like tomorrow or next weekend saves me a lot of time and effort.

I use multiple sources to get the idea of what to expect and I usually start with the Surfline which provides a highly simplified 16 days forecast based on the computer models but realistically the data constantly changes and gets more accurate within 12 hours before the swell arrives.

Despite the written forecast, I still prefer to use my own rudimentary knowledge of meteorological and oceanographic terminology to reduce the risk of getting skunked. For instance, coming to the beach and wondering why the swell didn’t show up and it’s totally flat or it’s way bigger than it was predicted.

So, when I check any surf forecast apps or websites, I am most interested in the swell period, swell size, swell direction, tide and wind direction. However the swell period is one of the most important ones that I pay attention to and it plays as an x factor in forecasting.

For instance, a 3 ft swell @ 8 sec period could create 2-4 ft waves on the sets while 3 ft swell @ 10 seconds will be like 4-5 ft on the sets.


Unfortunately we will never be able to predict the surf with 100% accuracy however we continue trying.

If you like to get deeper into this subject, I suggest reading the book: Surf Science “An introduction to waves for surfing” by Tony Butt.

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Surf Forecast:
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Wind Forecast:
www.windy.com
www.windfinder.com
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Occasionally:
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My Height: 5’9” or 175.3 cm
Weight: 155 lbs. or 70.3 kg

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Filmed on DJI Mavic Air 2

#surfreports #surfforecast #surfline #magicseaweed #swellinfo #captainsurf #surfing

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