Break tested 4 samples of 316 stainless steel 10mm spring hook carabiners. I bought them from a steel manufacturer in China. The manufacturer didn't state any "load bearing" or "minimum breaking load" rating. I've just been curious about these generic ones that steel manufacturers and hardware stores sell; some might actually have a stated rating of a sort though.

Given the first sample broke almost 20 kN higher than the rest of the samples, shows that some minor improvements in the design could better exploit the full potential strength of them.

These types of carabiners can be used in open anchor systems, for ease of lowering off.
@alpinesavvy714 has an awesome writeup on it.
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Bolt Products are rated to 31 kN
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US Stainless are rated to 5000 lbs (22kN)
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I'm not affiliated with the manufacturer of this hardware. I'm an independent climber & developer that is curious about all this hardware being made & used here in Asia.

DISCLAIMER: The information and "backyard science" testing shown in this video is not solid grounds to state a bolt, hanger, or hardware is safe and appropriate to install. It is the developer's responsibility to make the best judgment on up-to-date understanding and practices. Choosing to install and use uncertified climbing/rappelling hardware will raise additional concerns and questions: What is the quality of the raw materials and production method? Is QA(Quality Assurance) and QC(Quality Control) being conducted? What is the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level); meaning is proper testing of a sufficient sample amount being conducted? Does the product meet the requirements for possible certification? If it is certified, are up-to-date certifications provided? Does the manufacturer and/or retailer guarantee quality production? If a bad batch is discovered, will the manufacturer/retailer inform buyers for a product recall?

Developers and installers must also ask: Do I actually know who manufactures the product? Is the retailer I'm buying it from reputable? Is the bolt/hanger/hardware the appropriate choice and metal for the area, (e.g near saltwater)? Am I mixing dissimilar metals? Have I done any personal checking/inspection of the quality, strength, etc? Strong discretion must be exercised if deciding to use uncertified/untested/unrated bolts, hangers, or hardware that was bought from a hardware-store/manufacturer that you intend to use for life-dependent situations (e.g. climbing, rappelling, rope access).

#breaktest #hardware #stainlesssteel #anchors #climbingtaiwan #攀岩 #攀登 #固定點 #routedevelopment #carabiners #anchor

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