After five days climbing on Kalymnos, I was pretty damn worked. I scoured the internet before this trip for any beta on the climbing potential on Paros and came up with very little. Just some mention of potential bouldering and a deep water solo wall which I saw and, holy crap! We stayed in Naousa on the north of the island, close to the Greek white-washed buildings with many trendy restaurants and (in my opinion) worthless upscale shopping. The beaches are stunningly beautiful. Day one was spent just exploring these incredible places around the island. Immediately, when driving to the first stop at Kolympethres Beach, I saw rolling hills of granite. That was it for me. Not like I was eager to rush through exploring these famous beaches with unforgettable beauty… quite the contrary. Crystal clear water, white sand, quaint little cafes at every turn. It was like a dream. But I had the sight of these rocks in my mind all day.
Next morning was my time to explore the climbing. I didn’t have any expectations since I hadn’t heard anything about this rock. Nothing. I set off with a big bottle of water, climbing shoes and the very little dusting of chalk I had remaining from the five days of Kalymnos. Right away I was pleasantly surprised by the rock quality. Generally super solid granite with unbelievable features. Wavy, bubbly overhangs, cracks, vertical faces, I saw everything. I spent several hours climbing easy problems, no harder than v3 and, with no water left in the bottle and 32°C, it was time to boogie. On my way out, I saw what I believed to be the most impressive features I’ve ever seen for a boulder problem. I had to try pulling on but it was so hot, baking in the sun and I had no water left. Possibly even more detrimental, no chalk. Not even enough to make a tick on the wall. I’m coming back for this one, with chalk. Just one problem. I’m on the island of Paros where rock climbing is about as foreign to the locals and tourists there as the boujee clothing stores there to the climbers of Kalymnos. Maybe that’s a stretch but I was gonna have a hard time finding chalk. My next thought was finding a gym that could sell me some weight-lifting chalk. I called everywhere, even the hip Yoga and Pilates locations where all these obnoxious influencers make sure and humble brag about how they’re trying to stay in shape after all the feta cheese they’re eating while posting a picture of their flat, tanned abs. No luck on the chalk. My next step was running to a toy store to buy writing chalk. I was aware it wasn’t the same thing but I had to try. I crushed it, dumped in my bag, ran to the boulder and, epic fail. It was like climbing with olive oil on my hands. I trashed it, rinsed out my chalk bag and started thinking of my next move. The boulder seemed pretty hard but wasn’t gonna be possible in this heat, even when in the shade.
I decided I’d drop by one of the gyms I called before and ask in person, maybe offer a few euro. The owner, nice as could be, realized it was maybe a language barrier when I called before and allowed me to dump all the chalk I need in my bag in return for a good google review. I obliged. I was so thankful and so so psyched! My wife and I made other plans on the island but I knew I’d get back and try this line and another classic looking boulder before leaving.
It was the last day. I set my alarm to get there at sunrise with optimal shade. The temps felt less scorching and actually offered a steady breeze which I was thankful for. I knew the moves at this point so I just had to do it. Having chalk was all the difference. I felt like I was walking the first half but still punted at the crux every time. Ultimately, I found this bad sloper on a higher rail that I used to bump through the crux sequence which consists of utterly frictionless holds (even with chalk) on a massive overhang to a protruding horn where it’s basically sent. After that, it’s a still a long way to the knee-bar/mantle finish.
This is the best boulder I’ve ever climbed. When I first saw it, all the holds were covered in what I can only describe as sea brine salt. It was slippery and salty feeling and, seemed to me, had been there for a very long time. It took quite a lot of brushing off but the rock is supreme.
I was flying high when I sent and the day was early still so I chalked up the holds on the other classic looking boulder just steps away. I spent about an hour or so of working the moves with a less than ideal landing, sans pads. It’s a very overhanging face with incredible features that I’m not used to seeing in granite. Decided I’d give it a go from the bottom. It’s possible to sit start it but really doesn’t add difficulty so…. I started from a vertical crack rail and good feet, crossed left hand to a deep edge, stepped right foot out to a smeary rail and lunge into an undercling crack. From here, big, stretchy moves to jugs at the lip, using a toe-hook to control the swing. Another incredible boulder.
