At the beginning of this year, I saw some new removable bolts show up on the Chinese shopping platform Taobao. And these were 8mm! I've already bought the M12 Camnal ones, so these definitely piqued my interest. The online shop selling them sold kitchen wares. I talked to the seller, and he said he was selling them for a friend. More than 35 of them have been sold already, with positive reviews from AC Technicians, Rope Access Technicians, and others, so that's good.
They come with a 5mm thick 304 stainless steel Chinese-made hanger, (as opposed to the Aluminum one that comes on Petzl's that's rated to 15 kN.) But actually you can put whatever hanger you want on these. I paid about NT$800 for it ($25 USD), pretty good price. Oh, they're not certified of course BTW. He states they have a WLL of 420kg. The main shaft is 316 stainless steel, the movable tabs are 304, and the main housing is aluminum.
So we took it up to a little over 4 kN during our tensile test, and didn't notice any plastic deformation; it still worked fine. Then we break tested it, where it pulled out of the sandstone we were testing in at 24 kN.
@MountainMullet testing:
[ Ссылка ]
Taobao Listing:
[ Ссылка ]
I actually found the guy who made these, and he recently got made a bunch of other sizes and lengths made, from 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm. So I'm waiting my samples to
come in.
I'm not affiliated with the manufacturer of this hardware, nor with the seller. I'm an independent climber & developer that is curious about all this hardware being made & used here in Asia.
***Use "ClimbingTaiwan" as a discount code to get 10% off at [ Ссылка ] and it helps supports what we're doing***
#breaktest #stainlesssteel #anchors #climbingtaiwan #固定點 #canyoning #canyoneering #hanger #bolts #bolting #溪降 #溯溪 #瀑降 #rappelling #rappel #下降 #caving #洞穴探险 #ropeaccess #繩索 #高空繩索 #boltingroutes #routedevelopment
DISCLAIMER: The information and "backyard science" testing shown in this video is not solid grounds to state a bolt, hanger, or hardware is safe and appropriate to install. It is the developer's responsibility to make the best judgment on up-to-date understanding and practices. Choosing to install and use uncertified climbing/rappelling hardware will raise additional concerns and questions: What is the quality of the raw materials and production method? Is QA(Quality Assurance) and QC(Quality Control) being conducted? What is the AQL (Acceptable Quality Level); meaning is proper testing of a sufficient sample amount being conducted? Does the product meet the requirements for possible certification? If it is certified, are up-to-date certifications provided? Does the manufacturer and/or retailer guarantee quality production? If a bad batch is discovered, will the manufacturer/retailer inform buyers for a product recall?
Developers and installers must also ask: Do I actually know who manufactures the product? Is the retailer I'm buying it from reputable? Is the bolt/hanger/hardware the appropriate choice and metal for the area, (e.g near saltwater)? Am I mixing dissimilar metals? Have I done any personal checking/inspection of the quality, strength, etc? Strong discretion must be exercised if deciding to use uncertified & unrated & untested: bolts, hangers, or hardware that was bought from a hardware-store that you intend to use for life-dependent situations (e.g. climbing, rappelling, rope access).
