If you want to know how to ice climb the classical Cascata Candelone di Patri in the Valnontey valley near Cogne in Italy, then watch this ice climbing video.
And in the end of this ice climbing video there will be a few tips on other ice climbing routes around Cogne in the Valle Aosta in northern Italy.
The classic ice climbing route Cascata Candelone di Patri is six pitches long at grade WI4 in the Valnontey valley in the Gran Paradisio National Park in Northern Italy.
The climb actually has several different variations like the Patri de Droite and Patri de Gauche. The latter being a bit easier than the first.
Approaching the Cascata Candelone di Patri is really easy, but it will take you about an hour at least. So, take the car from Cogne to the small village of Valnontey and park at the big parking lot just before the bridge.. You then simply follow the footpath on the left side of the river for roughly 45 minutes. You willl find a red sign that says “Patri”
Follow that uphill, and you will soon see the magnificent Cascata Candalone di Patri!
1st Pith: The first pitch offers several possibilities, but is roughly about 50m and ranging from 70-80º.
2nd Pitch: The second pitch, however is a 15m, 90º short, vertical section with a bolted below to the right.
3rd Pitch: The third pitch is a 15m vertical section too. It can be avoided though, if you venture right by a slope of snow/soft ice. Some 10 meters up from the vertical ice, there is a belay on bolts at a boulder.
4th Pitch: The fourth pitch begins after about 20 meters, where you will find a 10 meter steep section, and then an ice slope on top. There is a belay again at a boulder in the middle.
When you have done the first four pitches you will end up at a basin where the Cascata Candelone di Patri divides into two separate variations – Patri de Gauche to the left, and Patri de Droite to the right. We branched left and climbed Patri de Gauche, which you can see in this ice climbing video
5th Pitch: This will make the fifth pitch of Cascata Candelone di Patri and is 40m sustained 80 degrees ice. Nothing hard, and really fun!
There is a bolted belay at the top from where you can belay for the final pitch
6th Pitch: The final pitch starts by a short traverse, and then up a narrow, icy gully. However, since we climbed Cascata Candelone di Patri early season the ice gully wasn’t really formed, so we decided to abseil from the fifth pitch.
When ready for descending Cascata Candelone di Patri, you simply abseil down the two top two pitches, and then walk down to the right.
You should bring 10 ice screws and 10 alpine quick draws then you are good to go. There is no really need to bring any rock gear as this is a pure ice climb. However bring two 60 meters half ropes for the abseil at the very top, and if you want to do the first two pitches in one push as we did!
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